Monday, 8 March 2010

Scotland - A Long Weekend.....2010.

A report from Jonah on his latest Scottish adventure, with photos by TrevS:

Drove upto Tyndrum with MarkB and TrevS on Wednesday night.

Thursday morning went into the Eas Anie waterfall on Ben Chuirn (icefall at the mo) and climbed it in beautiful blue sky conditions - really good. Then spent some time talking to the gold miners at the bottom, impressive plans.

Then drove over to Fort Bill, booked somewhere to stay, and went and did the Steall waterfall (icefall) in Glen Nevis. Really good, rarely forms, 150m high, not hard, and timed so all the crowds were leaving when we got there so had it to ourselves.

Friday, avalanche city everywhere, so walked into a low lying cliff on Aonach Mor and climbed a gully/icefall called Smoking The White Owl (ace name). Bottom pitches were not fully formed, but the top (crux) pitches were, and wwere very good. Finished a few hundered metres from the top Gondola station, so strolled across and was back at the car in no time.

Sat, still avalanche city, so head north to Applecross, went in to do Mare Hare's Gully on Beinn Bhan, but decided not to climb as it was about 5 degrees in the corrie, and big icicles were falling off and the snow had the consistency of porridge. Some brave souls were climbing, awesome place, and need to go back there. Buddle's recommended route Silver Tear is an amazing line, and now on the must do list, along with March Hare's and Mad Hatters gullies. Then walked into the next corrie (home to silly hard stuff, Gully of the Gods is possibly the most intimidating line I've ever seen), scrambled up to the ridge and traversed the mountain - fantastic. Finished off with beer and food in the Applecross pub (9 degrees by the sea).

Sun, climbed Taxus with the icefall finish on Ben Dothaidh, very good including Trev's first grade IV lead. Then the weekend went to pot when the M80 was shut in front of us in the middle of a hugh set of conta flows, and road works. 2 hours later we were still driving around Falkirk B roads trying to find a way south - got in at 1:00am this morning.

Top weekend though, Jonah.