Monday, 22 February 2010

Langdale Weekend

19th to 21st February

A brief report from Maurice about the meet in Langdale at the weekend:

Walk on Saturday was good - from Grasmere via Easdale tarn, Sergeant Man and Pavey back into Langdale. Snow was dry and crunchy, didn't need crampons. Sunday morning was very wet snow falling - abandonned mission and went home.

And photos by Malcolm:

Saturday, 20 February 2010

Helvellyn in 2010.

A report on Trevor's trip to the Lakes on Wednesday:

I set out from the car park in Glenridding heading for Catstye Cam Gully. The photos show the weather conditions I was faced with. There was fresh snow down but on entering the gully, my axes found hard stuff beneath and it was most enjoyable.

I branched out right and picked my way through the rocks ( as mentioned on UK Climbing winter conditions page) to arrive at the highest point of Catstye Cam. You can see my steps to the summit in the photograph. It's an extremely long gully and it just keeps coming, well worth doing.

Then I traversed from Swirral Edge into gully number 1 in the Red Tarn area, only to discover a rope, DMM Fly axe, ice screws insitu, etc., as if someone had just vanished from the scene. Two other climbers arrived in the gully and we shared the task of recovering the gear as we ascended. ( Nice steep groove of ice two thirds up).

I handed over the retrieved gear to the other party as one of them was based in Patterdale.
Of course these days no chance of keeping the bounty as folks put notices up on UK climbing...can I have my gear back please... sort of thing and one feels obliged to do the right thing. (You can look at the posting under Lost and Found to see the list of gear that was left, but the guy gives no explanation of why it was left there, last time I looked).

Plenty of hefty cornices on top of Helvellyn, but not from the exit of Gully No.1, as can be seen. To be honest it's the only safe wat up at the moment in my humble opinion.

We came back along striding edge, notice the picie with no one on the edge except me.

All in all an excellent day out on the hills in superb conditions.

Anyway, I just wanted to let you know that I do get out from time to time and therefore do not wish to be nominated for "has been of the year" for a second year running.

Trev S.

Friday, 12 February 2010

Cwm Cneifion & Clogwyn Du 2010.

Jonah allowed himself to be led astray again by the infamous MikeB:

Jonah and I climbed Pillar Chimney today on Clogwyn Ddu. Great fun. The main pitch was lean with thin ice and verglass, but with reasonable gear. Very tight squeeze chimney thoughout and it went with a combination of hooking, torquing, stein pulls (!), ice placements, heel and toe boot cams (!), knee jams and arm bars! Falling would have broken limbs for sure. Top pitch was plated in ice and was a dream.

Monday, 8 February 2010

Farleton Knott 2010

MarkD, GrahamC and RichC went bouldering at Farleton Knott on Saturday. Judging from Rich's photos they enjoyed good weather and found some amusing problems.

                                                                     "I can fly"

Friday, 5 February 2010

Ordeal on Mt. Plata 2010

My 7 day ordeal on Mt. Plata by David Breen.

Last Tuesday I got a taxi to 12 kms from where you start the walk to Plata. I only just arrived at Pirrie Grand camp and the heavens opened. No time to inflate my sleeping mat. I crawled into my sleeping bag and I was inside the tent all Wednesday due to freezing rain. I could not aperate my stove. Thursday it was a bit sunny, then the rain and thunder storms came back.

Friday I climbed to Salto base camp 4,200 m. Then returned to my tent in a storm. Saturday and Sunday was bit better. A cafe gave me the brown runs. Monday climbed to Salto camp to stay the night.

A big snow storm came at 8.30pm and it never stopped for 7 hours. It was like being in a tomb inside my tent. I had no sleep at all fighting the snow wrecking my tent. The snow also stopped the air coming into the tent.

I honestly never felt right, was I going to die? Suddenly, I was fighting for breath, I had to do something to escape the tomb. I got out clearing the snow and I felt a bit better, but got no sleep at all. I found thermals and a goose down sleeping bag no good at all, and I had to put on my Belay jacket. Time passes so slowly in extreme conditions. I was on my own and my watch never got as much use.

The sun did arrive at 8am, crawling out to a deep snowy landcape, and it was freezing cold. I was able to get breakfast. Coffee and a sandwich. After, I spent time digging the tent out.
I was the first to break trail down. On the steep traverse, bouders were flying down ahead of me. I felt tired, so I came back to Mendoza to rest after my ordeal.

The highlights were time spent at Pirrie Grand camp 3,200 m. The birds kept me entertained. They enjoyed my cracker crumbs and a yellow hammer came to look at me. I also suffered with a groin stain and wondered did I have an hernia. After some rest it stopped hurting.

I will be resting in Mendoza for a few days. I will have to plan easy walks that don´t involve extreme conditions.

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Lakes Ice

While Graham and others were in Scotland this weekend, Jonah and MarkD went to the Lakes on Saturday in search of entertainment and it sounds like they found it:

Had a great day on Saturday in the lakes with MrD. Went into Hart & Scrubby Crags on the Ulswater side of Fairfield - most impressive, with loads to go at.

Did, Hart Crag Icefalls - nice multipitch grade III.
Something in the middle of the crag which we thought was another grade III, the crux 10m of which was more like V, 6 (top lead from MrD, doing some very techy mixed shenanagins a long way above a crap nut).

We then went over to Pendulum Gully, a really atmospheric grade II/III and did it rather speedily moving together - can really recommend this one - has some great chock stones to climb.

Finished the day on the top watching the moonrise - amazing sight as it was orange, and almost matched the colour of the setting sun to the west.

Spotted some more stuff up there that will be worth going back for - Pendulum Ridge looks particularly good - but not in condition on Saturday.

Scottish Winter Meet

A few pictures by AndyC of the recent Scottish Meet organised by GrahamC. Splitting into two parties, Graham and Mike ascended the Carn Mor Dearg Arete while Andy, Maurice and Steve climbed Ledge Route.