Monday, 28 September 2009

Mousetrap 2009

Mousetrap 128m E2 (5b,5a,5a) 3*

Jonah allowed himself self to be led astray again by the ever photogenic Mr. Buddle on Saturday.

Here are Jonah's comments on his experience:

Mousetrap - IN THE BAG - F**king Hell

Awesome route but very geologically challenging - amazing rock structure, but you can scrape it away with your nails......

Buddle led the first and third pitches, I got the middle one, awesome belay position at the top of the second pitch, would be perfect if it wasn't made up of 7 pieces of very crap gear (think micro wires in v.soft sandstoney stuff, and slings 'draped' over features).

Sunny, brilliant day.

Fortunately, Mike's comments are a little more expansive:

Mousetrap? Fookin hell...

Started early and hopped over boulders to the base of the route after a double abseil. I lead pitch one up the solidified mud. Fairly easy at first but with poor gear.

Got to the traverse after placing more poor gear, then placed a single goodish wire and started traversing into the chimneys accoss some good quality mud; running it out 'till I found some decent quartz in the chimney and awkwardly climbed this to another runner and easier ground which lead to a belay with five pieces of gear.

Jonah followed and then set off up pitch two. 25ft up he decided to snap a hand hold on the suprisingly steep wall and was saved from a plummet by luck, I suppose. A nice steep section lead to a lovely easy ramp which was climbed without much gear to a great stance where Jonah rigged a seven point belay - of which there was one decent piece - relaxing back like an English gentleman to watch my antics on the head wall.

On this I climbed over abysmal rock to a niche where there was enough decent gear to give enough courage to make a hard swing onto the vertical wall and steep solid-ish climbing to a ledge. This was followed by a lovely corner to the top and a four sling belay to finish.

Great stuff. Nerve racking at times, but kinda fun in an odd kinda way.