Monday, 3 August 2009

Wings of Unreason

The Roaches 2nd August 2009

Some of the chaps, and also a chapess, were at the Roaches on Sunday. It seems that MarkD has been at the Redbull again. Here is a brief report from RichC with photos by the entirely unrelated AndyC:

Went up to Skyline.

Mark led Jess up Time to be Had (HVD*), meanwhile Charlie started off by leading me up Cracked Arete (HS 4b).
Mark then moved on to Tobacco Road (VS 4c*), I believe he did the 5b start.


Meanwhile I lead the rather bold Condor Slab (VS 4c**).


Jess then got her lead head on for Condor Chimney (VD), while Charlie and I wandered over to the next buttress and did Lighthouse (VD*).

Mark decided to push things up a notch and led Jess up her first E1 - nosepicker (E1 5a). I lead Spectrum (VS 4c*) and Ogden Arete (S 4b*, wild start for the grade), while Charlie did Ogden (VD*).

It was then time to get something off the ticklist done, so we walked along to the hard very far buttress where Mark led Wings of Unreason (E4 6a**) onsight, complete with crazy dyno for the topout.









I followed him up in slightly less convincing style.




Oh just noticed I missed a route out - Charlie led me and Jess up Slab and Arete (S 4a**), after Jess had lobbed off the start, blown a chunk of rock clean off the wall and decked out!


Mark soloed it as well, and he soloed the adjacent Karabiner Slab (VS 4c*).