Tuesday, 29 April 2008

Hen Cloud

A report on climbing at Hen Cloud on Saturday 26 of April 08 and a short treatise on why climbing may be better than sex.

Andy C was really up for it today but offered me the lead on Great Chimney S 4a *** as he had done it before. I had a bit of a tussle with the first slabby crack on the left hand side but really enjoyed the final section after the move right.

Next up was Rainbow Crack VS 5a *** which Andy led. I found it very hard going on second and needed a rest on the gear. This thing is very high in the grade and Andy did really well as quite a bit of gear is placed under pressure.

Andy was still fired up to push himself ( " f--- it I'm just gonna do it ! " ).
So we next did Bachelor's Climb 28m VS 4c 3*** with Andy again on lead.
I don't know what it felt like on lead.......Andy ................? But seconding was brutal.
In particular the bulge at the top which you have to jam and scrape and thrutch over.
I came out panting for breath and bleeding and again had needed a rest.

Not to be dissuaded though we felt that as we were at Hen Cloud we just had to do Central Climb 38m VS 4c 3***. I led the first pitch which gives jamming but with just enough hand holds to ease the pressure and so felt really good. Next came Andy's lead up a very awkward crack. He stuck at it for a good while but in the end we swapped leads.

I didn't find it any easier so in the end, rather than risk the second benightment on this route I managed to avoid the crack by climbing the short wall to its right, gaining the next belay stance.
( phew ! ) Or rather ( F-"£$%^&****ing hell !!! )

Anyroad, Andy set off again on lead topping out nicely and bringing me up to meet Julie and Richard with tales of Peregrine sightings. What an epic.

A thought has struck me ( yes I know, it don't happen often ) but how many times do we do a climb and say, "that was horrible" or "thank god that's over" or "I don't want to do THAT again", etc., etc., etc.
Now, if you had a meal that evoked that response you would never eat it again would you?
Well you might if you had to but you would try to avoid it.
But we still go climbing....
Now what if after having sex, you felt moved to say "that frightened the life out of me" or "remind me why we do this" or "that felt awful, my knees are all bruised and my knuckles are bleeding" etc., etc., etc., would you not at least consider giving it up?
Or having a break, or doing it with someone else?
Thought so.
So there you have it, point proved.
Its better than sex.

Jeff B